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Saturday 7/7/18

2018-07-07, 21:07 by Gary M Jones

I was at the field today between 14:00 & 15:00 all on my own , good flying too. There is a dead sheep along the fence line towards the gate from the pits, I saw the farmer so reported this to her. I hope no one had plans for a BBQ Smile .

Farmer …

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Global RC 50cc Raven - Assembly Thread - Pic Heavy

+5
Allan Patrick
Mike S
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Post by Mark Barnes 2011-05-12, 17:27

Not sure how much I will get done tonight as the Garage is finnished so She;s comming home!

M
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Post by Mark Barnes 2011-05-12, 21:23

In and settled, had to lower the bench, she's a big girl

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Post by melfyn 2011-05-12, 21:34

Looking good
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Post by Mark Barnes 2011-05-15, 17:45

Not got a whole lot done this weekend with one thing and another going on.

But I got a pet hate out of the way and cut the cowl, flying electric for 2 years really makes you worry about doing a big one! also got the throttle link sorted

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Post by Rich 2011-05-23, 14:40

WTF's holding this build up then started really well, seems to have come up against a brick wall
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Post by Mark Barnes 2011-05-23, 14:59

Waiting on a header (bloody uk suppliers), and switches (bloody HK suppliers), and 2 can mounts that you will be cutting once said header arrives.

O and some prop bolts

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Post by Rich 2011-05-23, 15:00

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Post by Mark Barnes 2011-05-23, 15:04

and you will note the 22mm is out of stock

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Post by Rich 2011-05-23, 15:06

is 22mm not for the 30cc variety, if you check you're can inlet pipe diameter it should be 25mm


Last edited by Rich on 2011-05-23, 15:10; edited 1 time in total
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Post by Mark Barnes 2011-05-23, 15:09

bottom!

bottom!

bottom!
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Post by Rich 2011-05-23, 15:10

I know you are, there's lots of guys in the club with loads of petrol engine experience you know
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Post by Mark Barnes 2011-05-23, 15:11

Ive just looked through my "to order" pad on my desk in work and it clearly say's "25mm flexi Header"
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Post by Rich 2011-05-23, 15:12

so why haven't you ordered a 25mm then, I spoke to your old man & asked what the holdup was
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Post by Andy Sayle 2011-05-23, 15:15

25mm is nearly an inch, if that Helps?
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Post by Rich 2011-05-23, 15:18

25.4mm is an inch if that helps
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Post by Mark Barnes 2011-05-23, 15:26

BECAUSE IVE ORDERED THE WRONG ONE BECAUSE IM A MUPPET.

However ive just made a phone call and the right one is on the way.

This dose not change the switch possition mind.

Like my dad is in any possition to comment on somthing taking a while to finish!

Time has not been waisted though the Funfighter mustang is nearly done!
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Post by Rich 2011-05-23, 15:34

yeh but the switch isn't really important you could use a NiMh & an ordinary switch

Only joking about your dad I knew it would wind you up
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Post by Mark Barnes 2011-05-23, 15:41

Belive it or not Ive not got any NiMh packs or indeed a normal switch, had to buy a NiMh one yesterday for the Ign.

Thanks for spoting the error

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Post by Mark Barnes 2011-06-06, 18:56

Right as you now know I fooked it up about 2mins in so now have a few jobs to do,

Reckon I can sort the thrust vectoring so thats not an issue, the rest of the bits not much drama, but any ideas what to do with this?

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You cant see it from the inside as its right on the inside of a rib (no rib damage though

Global RC 50cc Raven - Assembly Thread - Pic Heavy - Page 2 IMG00239-20110606-1841

do i just splice a new bit of balsa in or do i need to renew a section of the LE? Its not gone completly through so maybe just give it abit of a doubler?

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Post by Andy Sayle 2011-06-06, 19:52

I had a similar hole in the wing of that Boomerang of mine when it rolled over a fence post on landing (some might call it an overshoot, I say I was making best use of the available runway.... all 105% of it....).

After checking and double checking there was no spar/rib damage, all i did was cut away the chewed up bits of wing skin, and glued some balsa "tongues" underneath the edges, but hanging out a bit. I then cut a patch from a bit of balsa the same thickness as the original skin, and shaped it so it would fit the hole perfectly, and rest on the tongues. Glue that down, and round the perimeter, and voila. Oh, I used a bit of lightweight filler to make sure it was nice and smooth too. Re-cover the mucked up covering, and it was good to go again. I used wood glue (white stuff, PVA maybe?) but I'm sure medium/thick cyano would do the trick quicker. Just make sure you have a good fit with parts first!

Good luck, and if you want me to do the repair, I've got a build slot free running from June 10th, to Decemeber 24th this year......

Andy
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Post by Rich 2011-06-06, 19:55

How do you know it was 105%
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Post by Andy Sayle 2011-06-06, 20:10

I worked it out to the nearest 1%. Did the sum in my head too Smile
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Post by Rich 2011-06-06, 20:18

No way what about the angles
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Post by Mark Barnes 2011-06-06, 20:28

lol, back to the matter in hand thanks Andy rib looks fine, LE is about 1/2 through so will doubler it from the inside I think

In other news rest of the bits look a doddle so will crack on tomorrow

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Post by Andy Sayle 2011-06-06, 20:41

Don't forget to give the threads (internal and external) a good clean with a solvent like alcohol, acetone or petrol (without oil in!) if you are going to threadlock the bolts in this time. Otherwise, it just wont stick very well at all.

Also, check the amount of thread that is actually engaging in the standoffs too. If it is less than about 2 times the diameter of the bolt, you need a longer bolt in there!

Andy

PS, and yes that includes the angles. I love a bit of trig!
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