WOT4 Mk2 ARTF

Hi
I have heard mixed reports about this version my ripmax, has anyone here had any experience with this particular version as it is going for a great price and will fit all my current gear to! (for after my A tho)
Ive heard people say bad things like lack of glue, poor covering, broken/faulty parts and lack of parts to!
But I have also good things to where none of the above happened.
Is it worth it to go artf, but im sure the kit will all ways trump the artf!

This question is like "how long is a piece of string?" Sam. The original Chris Foss kits were and still are great but you won't get one to the field as cheaply as you will the ARTF version. I have no "hands on" experience of the ARTF version but I still own one of the originals. I suspect the ARTF will fly just as well if not even better as it may well be lighter. As for the build quality and the accessories supplied I don't know With the kit you can build it more to your own tastes,but,I've seen some pretty badly built ones and remember you cannot build "good flying aircraft" to hit the ground. There was one at the field, ARTF that is, a couple of weeks ago which seemed to fly well,ask around and find out whose it was and you may be able to canvas an opinion Take your time over the decision

Hi,

Yes, I have one of these. It's fine, it went together well enough except for a bit at the tail end where I added a bit more wood to increase the glueing area and had to true up the fuselage slots the tailplane slides through, but otherwise was fine. Its light, built and covered well and flies well. No shortages in the box, a nice cowl and generally good quality parts. I also replaced the elevator push rod with a snake to reduce the force on the elevator servo in the event of an 'arrival' and maybe save the gears but that's me.

Hi Sam
I bought one at last club meet from Kerin
Looking through the kit, I would agree with Allan Patrick, it seems very good

The original Chris Foss Wot4 design became a classic model even 20 years ago. Chris, Ken Binks and Chris Ramsey formed the Skyleader (R/C gear) display team and the basis of the design they flew was a biplane designed by Chris. It was eventuall kitted as the Wots Wot biplane that Chris still sells as a kit today. They were the display team to see if you went to a show. Synchonised aerobatics and so on.
The Wot4 designs were basically balsa sheet fus parts with some thin ply and ready veneered parallel chord foam wings which had to be joined with a glass fibre bandage. They had to be covered. Some modellers went to extreme lengths with glass cloth.
There were clone versions around, many were only look alikes and flew badly because they were out of alignment and had distorted foam wings just for starters.
Popular power was 45 size two stroke but they fly nicely on even a 30 and were ridiculous with a 61. However, most used a poular 40 or 45 engine.
Probably the modern LA46 would be perfect.

The original designs were light but inevitably some modellers beefed them up after adding bigger engines. So the result was a flying brick. Fast yes....but the normal Wot4 had a personality when flown carefully.
This new ARTF kit is of the best variant in my opinion. It has the departure of built up wings rather than foam and the whole thing is distincly lighter than any previos Wot4.

Good Points
Nice cowl, Obviously laser cut parts well assembled. Good accessories, well covered, draw strings to help fit servo leads, good instructions, stiff nuts supplied with quality engine bolts, good undecart and wheels, wing and U/C fixing good with built in metal captive nuts. Very light airframe.
covering very neatly done and no real grumbles there.

Not so good
No mention of fuel proofing inside front of fus... looks bare wood to me
(wot fuel well tanks ALWAYS LEAK only if you don't fuel proof the tank bay ...sods law)
Would prefer Nylon breakable bolts for wing and U/C otherwise could suffer structure damage on heavy landing
The covering needs to be sealed with fuel proof lacquer at all edges of film and where covering overlaps. I use Solarlac let down with thinners. Yes it's a pain but otherwise the covering will come loose. Only takes about an hour if you put your mind to it.
Would prefer metal clevises everywhere and do away with the plastic ones (supplied are OK but)
Also, do away with bent rod and keeper at servo ends and use Z bend in the wire (but then you need Z bend tool which is more munny.

Wot colour special editions.
Just exactly the same kit but with different coloured films
So why 10 pound more?

Final thought
It would cost youi a lot more to build and finish one from a traditional kit.