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Saturday 7/7/18

2018-07-07, 21:07 by Gary M Jones

I was at the field today between 14:00 & 15:00 all on my own , good flying too. There is a dead sheep along the fence line towards the gate from the pits, I saw the farmer so reported this to her. I hope no one had plans for a BBQ Smile .

Farmer …

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Tail dragger or tricycle?

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Tail dragger or tricycle? Empty Tail dragger or tricycle?

Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 13:03

Which do you prefer and why?
Which is the BEST over all?

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 15:26

are you asking about full size or model

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 15:34

Model

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 16:21

Iv'e found that sterable Nose wheel can be a bit fragile on rough ground,especially when Taxying out.When applying full power for T/O Tail Wheel types depending on c of g can tip up.Landing for both no real problems though attitude is slightly different,Flying Ive never noticed any difference.Though others with more Model experience will add their comments and they should be noted.

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Post by Mark Barnes 2009-12-28, 16:23

I hate all things trike, they handel like crap on the ground and look crap in the air, however they do have there uses when learning saving many a prop
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Post by Tim 2009-12-28, 16:27

I prefer taildraggers ( but of course some scale models will have to be trikes )
Nosewheels can be troublesome - especially on long grass, they are forever bending which means potentially can also mean broken props, or at least the wrong AOA making rotation difficult. I think the landing approach with a taildragger actually helps to prevent broken props, as I have seen many learners almost throw the model at the ground , believing the nosewheel will save them!
I just think taildraggers generally look nicer too - such as the Acrowot and so on.
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Post by Brian Colclough 2009-12-28, 16:55

My twopenneth for what it's worth. The fashion with trainers seems to be for trike gear which as Mark has said does prevent nose overs and broken props, personally I've found whilst instructing lately that the noselegs and their mountings are more robust than they used to be and unless they are literaly thrown at the ground survive quite well. The steering on some can be a mite twitchy but that can be a setup issue.
My personal preference is for taildraggers but I tend to think the trike more suitable for the trainer Tail dragger or tricycle? Icon_wink

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 17:06

taildraggers are better in the rough provided u dont nose over, they get away far easier as once the tail lifts thers onlt 2 wheels on the ground so less drag. I think where models are concerned especially if there is a retracting undercart its far more cost effective and less complex to be a taildragger than a nose-legger.

you planning a build sam???

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 17:34

No, Im not that good!
Im just looking up ARTF's as my first Low winger after I take my A, I quite fancy a Spit!

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 17:58

sam a great place to go after your trainer is a fun fly type aircraft. it will teach you a lot more than a warbird ever could. thers lots of suitable models available such as http://www.stevewebb.co.uk/index.php?pid=MODEDEMON&area=Aircraft
or
http://www.stevewebb.co.uk/index.php?pid=A262&area=Aircraft

both will be fine with the motor from your trainer.

if you want a warbird have a try at a GWS one there small very cheap and loads of fun.

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 18:05

Are the acrowot planes a 'fun fly' type?
http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=22225
I like my planes to look fairly realistic (with the exception of trainers)

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 18:20

most Trainers look realistic after a while, dents,torn fabric,bent U/C over used engine.

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 19:01

more of a sports/aero. and you have to build em with the gluing and the sanding and the covering of the film...

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 19:03

Leigh wrote:more of a sports/aero. and you have to build em with the gluing and the sanding and the covering of the film...
So the fun fly things arent a artf?

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 19:41

Whoops my mistake!
Its the Acrowot that is a kit!
Is hanger 9 a good make?
Because I have found one IDEAL size, power and radio gear requirements.
http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=19974
And it looks good too!
What do you thinks?
Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

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Post by Rich 2009-12-28, 20:50

The Acrowot is the idea third model after the high wing trainer then the high wing intermediate (Wot 4) I'm sure your itching to progress to the advanced stage but most trainers will do anything in the book with the exception of the high "G" moves. Save your money for now Chris Foss kits are expensive to start with then you have to build them sand them cover them etc. Have a look at the Black Horse stuff around the £60 mark & genuine ARTF.
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Post by Tim 2009-12-28, 21:10

I was rather hoping young sam would be tempted to get an Acrowot - I feel the Spitfire he hankers after should be his 2nd or third model after he has got his A test, and thought it might be nice to get the younger element actually BUILDING something properly, rather than RTF chinese clones every time. After all, the Acrowot is not exactly difficult, and is so much more rewarding and easier to repair if needed.
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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 21:32

Tim, If I had the skill, tools and suplies needed to build a kit then I would, but for now while im still learning I will stick to black horse, and who knows, I could totaly destroy it on the maiden, and I would feel alot worse If I had built it, rather than a Chinese 8yr old boy! Very Happy
I will keep on flying my trainers after my A test intill I have learnt and perfected most manoeuvres that she is capable of, then I will go low wing! Very Happy
This is what I may get
http://www.sloughrc.com/asp/default.asp?itemid=A-BH002
But I might not get a Low wing intill this time next year!
So I have plenty of time!
-
Thanks!
-
Sam

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 21:44

I have tried all sorts of models over the years. I thought I knew it all, but was most surprised at the brilliant results even I could get from the "then" new, fun fly models.
The first one I had was a Park Amber fu2 Fun Fly, a model designed to be just that. Touch and go's, most number of take offs and landings from a mini roof in 10 seconds etc etc. Still used today in the Nationals fun fly event.
Then I had an Avicraft Panic and later a Balsacraft Extreme. All different but so much more exciting than the usual flyijng sheds, known as "Trainers".

All these fun flys are very aerobatic but, if you want, they can be really tamed and will hover for days on end if rhat's what you fancy.
Much better way of getting the hang of flying properly and learning how to handle a model but having fun too.

The popular trainers, either trike or tail draggers are a poor learners model in my opinion. They won't fly right. It is almost as if the model would prefer to be in charge.
The rudder interferes with what the ailerons do and the ailerons interfere with what the rudder should do.
Very difficult to fly well inverted because in some situations , the rudder action is reversed because of the wing dihedral.
They are usually quite heavily loaded and behave accordingly. Take offs are a gallop accross the whole strip with possibly a reluctant sluggish slow climb out. Landings tend to be a fast controlled dive/crash. If you try to land them slowly or lift it to go around again because it isn't right it just stalls and crashes in a heap.

I fly one just for the hell of it but it is a pig to fly so it looks nice and smooth. Yes it looks easy to an outsider, but it does need a lot of help to make it look OK.

The ones Leigh has suggested to you are a top class choice for someone who really wants to become a whizz flier.
They are very easy to fly and you will not be overwhelmed by either of them.

First though, we have to get you into flying correctly right way up and doing horizontal circles and figures of eight that are perfect. Also effortless takeoffs and landings. Yes and on windy days too.
Then we go for the A test
Then we do it all again inverted and then vertical and rolls and so on.
And then do the B test

So roll on the nice warm calm sunny days

But you can start doing all this indoors with a shocky NOW !

PS noticed you were about to post
The Black Horse Super Air you mention is just about OK but it is very similar to the one I use which has the parallel wing and trike undercarriage with OS46 LA. The Super Air taper wing means it is more sensitive to tip stalling at low flying speeds. Can't honestly say it comes even near a proper fun fly model. Yes it's a lot better than some being lighter wing loading but it still It has a very fast glide and you only get one chance to land and stop on the strip if there is no wind to help slow it down.

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Post by Tim 2009-12-28, 21:44

Fairysnuff Sam
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Post by Brian Colclough 2009-12-28, 22:07

PDQ wrote:I have tried all sorts of models over the years. I thought I knew it all, but was most surprised at the brilliant results even I could get from the "then" new, fun fly models.
The first one I had was a Park Amber fu2 Fun Fly, a model designed to be just that. Touch and go's, most number of take offs and landings from a mini roof in 10 seconds etc etc. Still used today in the Nationals fun fly event.
Then I had an Avicraft Panic and later a Balsacraft Extreme. All different but so much more exciting than the usual flyijng sheds, known as "Trainers".

All these fun flys are very aerobatic but, if you want, they can be really tamed and will hover for days on end if rhat's what you fancy.
Much better way of getting the hang of flying properly and learning how to handle a model but having fun too.

The popular trainers, either trike or tail draggers are a poor learners model in my opinion. They won't fly right. It is almost as if the model would prefer to be in charge.
The rudder interferes with what the ailerons do and the ailerons interfere with what the rudder should do.
Very difficult to fly well inverted because in some situations , the rudder action is reversed because of the wing dihedral.
They are usually quite heavily loaded and behave accordingly. Take offs are a gallop accross the whole strip with possibly a reluctant sluggish slow climb out. Landings tend to be a fast controlled dive/crash. If you try to land them slowly or lift it to go around again because it isn't right it just stalls and crashes in a heap.

I fly one just for the hell of it but it is a pig to fly so it looks nice and smooth. Yes it looks easy to an outsider, but it does need a lot of help to make it look OK.

The ones Leigh has suggested to you are a top class choice for someone who really wants to become a whizz flier.
They are very easy to fly and you will not be overwhelmed by either of them.

First though, we have to get you into flying correctly right way up and doing horizontal circles and figures of eight that are perfect. Also effortless takeoffs and landings. Yes and on windy days too.
Then we go for the A test
Then we do it all again inverted and then vertical and rolls and so on.
And then do the B test

So roll on the nice warm calm sunny days

But you can start doing all this indoors with a shocky NOW !

PS noticed you were about to post
The Black Horse Super Air you mention is just about OK but it is very similar to the one I use which has the parallel wing and trike undercarriage with OS46 LA. The Super Air taper wing means it is more sensitive to tip stalling at low flying speeds. Can't honestly say it comes even near a proper fun fly model. Yes it's a lot better than some being lighter wing loading but it still It has a very fast glide and you only get one chance to land and stop on the strip if there is no wind to help slow it down.

We'll have to nominate you for the Dimbleby lectures Paul Tail dragger or tricycle? Icon_wink

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 22:20

sam had a thought the weston uk cougar, is artf, tough as old boots and you wont get bored. can be tamed right down to find your feet but crank up the control throws and they fly like shockies. http://www.westonuk.co.uk/westonuk2_096.htm.

The travel air and that sort of model will bore you in short order, yes they are great learning tools but the repertoire is limited.

really do consider a gws warbird there great fun and being small and electric you can give em a chuck almost anywhere, best part is you could get one in the air for under 50quid if you pick the right bits. you can build one on the kitchen table very little mess, they are also very easy to fix if you break em. ive smashed some to bits and an evening with the glue and they fly again.

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 23:05

Im not really into all that 3D flying like mark does, I like to do scale(ish) aerobatics, 3d is just a bit ott for me really.
Cuban 8's and inverted fly-by's are my sort of flying, not hovering and flipping about

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Post by Guest 2009-12-28, 23:12

This looks rather nice,
http://www.sloughrc.com/asp/default.asp?itemid=A-BH047
I have always liked how yak's look
Its the right size and all, and the .46 will fir nicely!

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Post by Guest 2009-12-29, 12:56

Brian Colclough wrote:
PDQ wrote:I have tried all sorts of models over the years. I thought I knew it all, but was most surprised at the brilliant results even I could get from the "then" new, fun fly models.
The first one I had was a Park Amber fu2 Fun Fly, a model designed to be just that. Touch and go's, most number of take offs and landings from a mini roof in 10 seconds etc etc. Still used today in the Nationals fun fly event.
Then I had an Avicraft Panic and later a Balsacraft Extreme. All different but so much more exciting than the usual flyijng sheds, known as "Trainers".

All these fun flys are very aerobatic but, if you want, they can be really tamed and will hover for days on end if rhat's what you fancy.
Much better way of getting the hang of flying properly and learning how to handle a model but having fun too.

The popular trainers, either trike or tail draggers are a poor learners model in my opinion. They won't fly right. It is almost as if the model would prefer to be in charge.
The rudder interferes with what the ailerons do and the ailerons interfere with what the rudder should do.
Very difficult to fly well inverted because in some situations , the rudder action is reversed because of the wing dihedral.
They are usually quite heavily loaded and behave accordingly. Take offs are a gallop accross the whole strip with possibly a reluctant sluggish slow climb out. Landings tend to be a fast controlled dive/crash. If you try to land them slowly or lift it to go around again because it isn't right it just stalls and crashes in a heap.

I fly one just for the hell of it but it is a pig to fly so it looks nice and smooth. Yes it looks easy to an outsider, but it does need a lot of help to make it look OK.

The ones Leigh has suggested to you are a top class choice for someone who really wants to become a whizz flier.
They are very easy to fly and you will not be overwhelmed by either of them.

First though, we have to get you into flying correctly right way up and doing horizontal circles and figures of eight that are perfect. Also effortless takeoffs and landings. Yes and on windy days too.
Then we go for the A test
Then we do it all again inverted and then vertical and rolls and so on.
And then do the B test

So roll on the nice warm calm sunny days

But you can start doing all this indoors with a shocky NOW !

PS noticed you were about to post
The Black Horse Super Air you mention is just about OK but it is very similar to the one I use which has the parallel wing and trike undercarriage with OS46 LA. The Super Air taper wing means it is more sensitive to tip stalling at low flying speeds. Can't honestly say it comes even near a proper fun fly model. Yes it's a lot better than some being lighter wing loading but it still It has a very fast glide and you only get one chance to land and stop on the strip if there is no wind to help slow it down.

We'll have to nominate you for the Dimbleby lectures Paul Tail dragger or tricycle? Icon_wink

Thanks Brian, Glad you liked it jocolor rendeer santa


Last edited by PDQ on 2009-12-29, 12:58; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : missed letter d)

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