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» 2019 Llanfair TH Village Fete
One for Marty - Clear lacquer. Empty2019-07-12, 18:53 by Rich

» Police crash
One for Marty - Clear lacquer. Empty2019-04-14, 15:36 by Roy

» Bit of indoors
One for Marty - Clear lacquer. Empty2019-04-13, 16:49 by Roy

» For Sale
One for Marty - Clear lacquer. Empty2019-03-03, 23:44 by Charles E Cornes

» selling up finaly!
One for Marty - Clear lacquer. Empty2019-02-10, 16:31 by melfyn

Saturday 7/7/18

2018-07-07, 21:07 by Gary M Jones

I was at the field today between 14:00 & 15:00 all on my own , good flying too. There is a dead sheep along the fence line towards the gate from the pits, I saw the farmer so reported this to her. I hope no one had plans for a BBQ Smile .

Farmer …

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One for Marty - Clear lacquer.

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Post by Andy Sayle 2010-09-27, 10:57

Morning all,

I was just wondering, for those that have done their own bit of painting, what products you use for going over paintwork for fuel proffing, and generally making it look pretty? I've tried some cheap clear lacquer from Halfords, and it doesn't seem to get on well with paraffin (jet fuel). I've also tried soem two pack clear from teh autopaint place in Rhyl. This works really well, but is a bit of a pain to mix, clean and use.

Anyone got any other suggestions? It needs to be airbrushable if possible too...

Andy
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Post by Guest 2010-09-27, 12:16

'Tufcote' Two part, crystal clear and totally fuel proof. Get from LMS Very Happy

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Post by Marty 2010-09-27, 13:51

To be up front , I've no experience of clearcoat that has to deal with Model fuels or pariffin.
I believe that any two pac clear should be ok because it is set by the chemical reaction of the two parts which then sets. but, I had a bike tank go horribly wrong and had to completly strip and repaint it when the clear started to lift around the filler neck, this is (apparently) caused by the fumes from the petrol creeping under the edge and causing de-lamination! The cure I discovered, was to seal the edge with araldite .......
I havn't found a clear which I can put through an airbrush without thinning down to the point where the surface is really pocked with solvent pop. (I don't use thinners for that very reason), depending on the make of clear coat (and temp) will determine the nozzle size of the gun. The smallest size I've ever gotten away with is the 0.8 on my sata detail gun, in the main I use a 1.2 - 1.4.
The only thing I can suggest is to set up some test pannels. Sorry not to be more help.
M
BTW Allan who are LMS? do they sell small amounts and do the trade with the general public?


Last edited by Marty on 2010-09-27, 13:51; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : THe usual ... typos)
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Post by Rich 2010-09-27, 14:11

I would imagine Leeds Model Shop, probably pay through the nose for it..!!
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Post by Marty 2010-09-27, 14:16

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Post by Mark Barnes 2010-09-27, 14:16

LMS is forum speak for " local model shop" but in this case it may be Leeds
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Post by Marty 2010-09-27, 14:18

lol, bit like "so what else did the Romans do for us?" PMSL
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Post by Guest 2010-09-27, 15:16

'Local Model Shop'. Tufkote(correct spelling) comes in 100ml bottle(goes a long way) with a small botle of catalyst and is distributed by Ripmax. Question???? Why would you want to cover a large area with an airbrush. I understood that the detail/picture/effects were applied with an airbrush and large areas were covered using a small/medium sized normal paint sprayer.

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Post by Andy Sayle 2010-09-27, 15:20

That's the exact problem I am having, solvent pop when thinning the 2pack down to get it through the airbrush. I did buy a 0.8m detail gun (Ebay cheapy) and it does work a lot better in terms of spraying an even coat without needing excessive thinning, but it is a right pain setting it up, and cleaning it after use, when all that is needed is about 3 "swooshes" with the gun to cover a miniscule bit of painting. To cover an entire model it would be great, but for detail work, it is a lot of effort!

Hmm....

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Post by Marty 2010-09-27, 15:43

Andy, welcome to the wonderful world of spraying! If it was easy, everyone would do it lol.
Not right at the moment because of the sharp down turn in the market, but before, I'd wait until I had a few "small" jobs and do a bunch of them together and minimise the cleaning time.
As an alturnative, have you considered using clear vinyl?
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Post by Andy Sayle 2010-09-27, 15:48

I haven't thought of that, no. However, Would it work as well as a proper clearcoat over colours that have metalflake or pearl in them?

Cheers
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Post by Marty 2010-09-27, 15:51

mmm dunno is the honest answer, try a test piece and let me know.
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Post by Zaidy 2010-09-28, 06:52

I know the subject / question is for Marty. I though this might be of interest !

I used a 2 pack clear coat that is fuel proof on my heli fins and works really well on 20% nitro! It comes in an a spray can with an activator button on the bottom. its a one use only once the activator is pressed within 24 hrs ! is costs around 18 pounds from ebay, i can't remember the name, but still have the used spray at home, which I am sure has the contact details and number on it !

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Post by Marty 2010-09-28, 08:40

Hi Zaidy, Long time buddy! Are you home?
I have come across these on airbrush forums but never used them.
What kind of finish do you get from them and what area will it cover?
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Post by Zaidy 2010-09-28, 09:02

Hi Marty, yes it has been a while. Still in the Gulf of Thailand and should be home by the 10th/11th fingers crossed!

The spray leaves a clear gloss finish, I used it on a set of fins on my 600 and used up 10% if that, if memory serves me right. I think you can get a large canopy done easily... I really thought it was a good product, especially for some with no spraying experience or kit to spry with, no cleaning. The only negative I can think of is the 24hrs shelve life once activated!

Regards


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Post by Marty 2010-09-28, 10:06

Yeah I can see the advantage of NOT having to clean! (I spend as much time cleaning guns and brushes as I do using them!).
I read somewhere that they were difficult to use? Too near and you get solvent pop and too far and you get "silly string"?
You still need to use masks and things! I use a forced air Devibliss system which is a bit OTT for the average modeler but for anyone reading this - BEWARE - Don't spray unprotected! No I really mean DON'T! The harmful stuff (insert big chemical names here) is accumilative! also it can be ingested, inhaled & absorbed Shocked
(A friend of mine has just been confined to a wheel chair, his prodoctive life is over! he was a custom painter who subscribed to "it's only a small bit, I'll be alright" He's 34!)
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Post by Brian Colclough 2010-09-28, 10:13

I lost two acquaintances in the motor trade, due to "gung ho" use of two pack paints back in the day before the risks were fully understood. Suspect

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Post by Marty 2010-09-28, 10:21

Yeah Brian, I'll believe that, it is really nasty stuff, we have all done a quick "squirt" while holding our breath and diss-remember the other exposure hazards!
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